Kadala, Sri Lankan Deviled Black Chickpeas
Kadala is the black chickpea snack sold in paper cones at Sri Lankan bus stands and cooked at home for tea, distinct from the softer South Indian sundal in both the bean and the seasoning. Kala chana stay firm and nutty no matter how long they boil, which makes them ideal to eat by the handful. The tempering is unmistakably Sri Lankan: mustard seed, curry leaf, torn pandan, Ceylon cinnamon, and byadgi chile for color. Many cooks finish it with grated coconut; here a squeeze of lime and the heat of two chiles carry it instead. Keep the pan dry so the chickpeas stay poppable.
Ingredients
- 1 cup Black chickpeas, soaked overnight
- 1 whole Red onions, diced
- 15 Curry leaves
- 1 whole Pandan leaf, torn
- 1/2 tsp Brown mustard seed
- 2 wholes Byadgi chile, broken
- 1/2 tsp Turmeric
- 1 inch Ceylon cinnamon, broken
- 1 whole Indian green chile, sliced
- 1 tbsp Lime juice
Method
- Drain the soaked black chickpeas and boil them in fresh water with the turmeric until tender but still firm enough to hold their shape, 45 to 55 minutes. Black chickpeas, kala chana, are smaller and nuttier than tan ones and never fully soften, which is exactly why they eat well as a dry, hand-held snack. Drain them and save a little of the cooking water.
- In a wide dry pan over medium heat, pop the mustard seeds until they jump, then add the curry leaves, torn pandan, broken cinnamon, and byadgi chile and let them crackle for a few seconds. This is the deviled tempering that defines the dish.
- Add the diced red onion and sliced green chile and cook until the onion softens and browns at the edges, about 6 minutes, using a splash of water when the pan runs dry.
- Add the drained chickpeas and toss over medium-high heat for 4 to 5 minutes, with a spoon of the cooking water, until they are hot and coated and the pan is dry again. Keep it dry: kadala is eaten from a cone of paper, not from a bowl with a spoon.
- Pull the pan off the heat and squeeze the lime over the top. Served warm with tea, the acid and the pepper of the chiles are what carry it in place of salt.
Nutrition
Estimated per serving: 200 calories, 11 g protein, 9 g fiber, 30 mg sodium. Computed from USDA FoodData Central reference values for the main ingredients. This is an approximation, not a laboratory measurement. How these are computed.
Cost per serving is estimated from US national-average retail prices for cheap staple forms, using BLS dried-bean prices and USDA produce prices. Prices vary by store and season, so treat it as a guide, not a receipt. How this is computed.
