The Pantry

277 of 277 ingredients

Legumes & Pulses

26

The protein spine. Cheapest complete nutrition in the store.

Red lentils

Red lentils masoor dal

Cook in 20 minutes and collapse into a creamy base with no cream.

$ dried Indian Middle Eastern Ethiopian

Peanuts

Peanuts groundnuts

Botanically a legume. Ground into sauces across three continents.

$ raw Thai West African Chinese whole-food-fat

Black chickpeas kala chana, desi chickpeas, bengal gram (whole)

Smaller and firmer than tan chickpeas, with more fiber. Hold their shape whole in a loose curry and lend their dark cooking water to the gravy.

$ dried Indian Middle Eastern

Toor dal pigeon peas, arhar dal, tuvar dal, split pigeon peas

Cooks down to a silky thickness that carries sambar and everyday South Indian dal.

$ dried Indian Sri Lankan Caribbean

Whole Grains

22

Intact kernels, not flour. Bulk, fiber, satiety.

Wild rice

Wild rice

Not rice at all. A grass seed. Chewy, smoky, expensive.

$$$ dried American

Millet

Millet bajra

Fluffy like couscous. Massively underused and very cheap.

$ dried Indian West African Chinese

Sorghum

Sorghum jowar

Chewy, pops like popcorn, gluten free.

$ dried Indian West African American

Steel-cut oats

Steel-cut oats pinhead oats

Chewy, savory-capable. Cook them with onions and see.

$ dried British American

Polenta / coarse cornmeal

Polenta / coarse cornmeal grits

Stone-ground, not instant. Creamy with no butter.

$ dried Italian American

Whole wheat couscous

Whole wheat couscous

Steamed semolina, technically pasta. Ready in five minutes.

$ dried North African Moroccan

Whole wheat short pasta ditalini, tubetti, whole wheat elbows, whole wheat vermicelli

Intact durum wheat instead of refined semolina. Small shapes hold their bite through a long simmer in soup, where regular pasta turns to mush.

$ dried French Italian Mediterranean

Hominy pozole corn, nixtamalized corn

Corn kernels treated in an alkaline bath until they puff and split. The entire point of a pot of pozole.

$ canned, dried Mexican check-label

Aromatics

15

The base of nearly every cuisine. Sweat in water, not oil.

Lemongrass

Lemongrass

Bruise the stalk, simmer, remove. Citrus without acid.

$$ fresh, dried Thai Vietnamese Indonesian

Galangal

Galangal

Pine and citrus. Not a ginger substitute despite the resemblance.

$$ fresh, frozen Thai Indonesian

Fennel bulb

Fennel bulb

Anise when raw, sweet and mellow when braised.

$$ fresh Italian Mediterranean

Pandan leaf rampe, screwpine

Knot a blade into a simmering pot for a grassy, vanilla-edged aroma, then fish it out.

$$ fresh, frozen Sri Lankan Thai Indonesian

Makrut lime leaves kaffir lime leaves

A floral citrus scent found in no other leaf. Sold frozen, torn straight into the pot rather than chopped.

$$$ fresh, frozen Thai Indonesian

Vegetables

38

Fresh, frozen, canned. Frozen is picked riper and costs less.

Canned crushed tomatoes

Canned crushed tomatoes

Picked ripe, no oil, cheaper than fresh nine months a year.

$ canned Italian Mexican Indian

Canned whole peeled tomatoes

Canned whole peeled tomatoes

Crush by hand. Better texture than pre-crushed.

$ canned Italian Mediterranean

Cremini mushrooms

Cremini mushrooms baby bella

Brown, cheap, meaty. Dry-sear them, do not crowd the pan.

$$ fresh French Italian American

Cabbage, red

Cabbage, red

Same price, more anthocyanins. Braise with vinegar to keep the color.

$ fresh German Eastern European

Broccoli

Broccoli

Do not throw out the stems. Peel and slice them.

$ fresh, frozen Chinese Italian American

Cauliflower

Cauliflower

Roast it hard and dry. Blend it for creamy sauces with no cream.

$ fresh, frozen Indian Italian Middle Eastern

Brussels sprouts

Brussels sprouts

Halve, cut side down, high heat, no oil, do not move them.

$$ fresh, frozen American European (general)

Sweet potatoes

Sweet potatoes

Sweetness, fiber, beta carotene. The best cheap starch.

$ fresh American West African Japanese

Beets

Beets

Roast whole in foil. The greens are better than the root.

$ fresh Eastern European Middle Eastern

Daikon radish

Daikon radish

Simmers into translucent sweetness. Grates raw into a sharp salad.

$ fresh Japanese Korean Chinese

Okra

Okra bhindi

High heat or acid stops the slime. Both, ideally.

$$ fresh, frozen Indian West African American

Bok choy

Bok choy

Stems and leaves cook at different rates. Add them separately.

$ fresh Chinese

Wood ear mushrooms black fungus, cloud ear fungus

Cartilage-crisp ribbons that soak up broth without ever going soft.

$$ dried Chinese

Soybean sprouts kongnamul

Nuttier and crunchier than mung bean sprouts, with the bean still attached to the tail; the base of kongnamul-guk.

$ fresh Korean

Green papaya unripe papaya, papaya verde

Starchy and neutral raw, made for shredding into salads that stay crisp for hours.

$$ fresh Thai Vietnamese

Cherry tomatoes grape tomatoes

Roast whole until the skins split and they make their own dressing, no oil required.

$$ fresh Italian Mediterranean

Tomatillo husk tomato, tomate verde

Papery husk hides a tart, bright fruit. Boiled and blended, it is the base of every green sauce.

$ fresh Mexican

Radishes red radish

Sliced paper-thin, they add the crunch a fried garnish would otherwise supply.

$ fresh Mexican

Leafy Greens

9

Highest nutrient density per calorie of anything here.

Kale

Kale

Massage it raw with lemon and it stops being tough.

$ fresh American Italian Portuguese

Swiss chard

Swiss chard

Two vegetables. Chop and cook the stems first.

$ fresh Italian French Middle Eastern

Mustard greens

Mustard greens sarson

Sharp and horseradish-like. Cuts through starchy dishes.

$ fresh Indian Chinese American

Romaine

Romaine

Grill it. Nobody expects that and it works.

$ fresh Mediterranean American

Fruit

16

Whole fruit only. Sweetness with fiber attached.

Lemons

Lemons

Zest before you juice. The zest is where the aroma lives.

$ fresh

Limes

Limes

Not interchangeable with lemon. Sharper, more floral.

$ fresh Mexican Thai Vietnamese

Raisins

Raisins sultanas

Sweetness that survives cooking. Plump them in hot water first.

$ dried Indian Moroccan European (general) natural-sugar

Dried figs

Dried figs

Jammy. Simmer into sauces where you would have used sugar.

$$ dried Mediterranean Middle Eastern natural-sugar

Tamarind paste

Tamarind paste imli

Sour and fruity at once. Check the label for added sugar.

$ paste Indian Thai Mexican check-label

Pomegranate

Pomegranate anar

The seeds are the only garnish that adds acid and crunch together.

$$ fresh Persian Middle Eastern

Nuts & Seeds

12

Whole-food fat. Small amounts do real work.

Almonds

Almonds

Blanched and blended, they thicken curries the way cream does.

$$$ raw Indian Spanish Moroccan whole-food-fat

Pumpkin seeds

Pumpkin seeds pepitas

Toast and blend into pepita sauce. The base of Mexican pipián.

$$ raw Mexican whole-food-fat

Tahini

Tahini

Ground sesame, nothing else. Read the label. Emulsifies with water.

$$ paste Middle Eastern whole-food-fat check-label

Ground flaxseed

Ground flaxseed linseed

Whole seeds pass through you. Grind or buy ground, store cold.

$ ground whole-food-fat

Chia seeds

Chia seeds

Absorb ten times their weight. Instant pudding, instant thickener.

$$ raw Mexican American

Hemp hearts

Hemp hearts

Complete protein, no soaking, mild. Expensive per pound.

$$$ raw American whole-food-fat

Peanut butter, unsweetened

Peanut butter, unsweetened

Peanuts and nothing else. The base of West African and Thai sauces.

$ paste Thai West African Indonesian whole-food-fat check-label

Fresh Herbs

15

Flavor without salt, oil, or sugar. The core substitution.

Thai basil

Thai basil horapha

Anise, not sweet basil. Survives heat where the Italian kind does not.

$$ fresh Thai Vietnamese

Oregano, fresh

Oregano, fresh

Milder than dried, oddly. The dried version is stronger here.

$ fresh Greek Mexican Italian

Chives

Chives

Onion without the cooking. Snip, never chop.

$ fresh French Chinese

Vietnamese coriander

Vietnamese coriander rau ram

Peppery cilantro relative. Holds up in hot broth.

$$ fresh Vietnamese

Dried Herbs

9

Bloom in liquid. Add early, unlike fresh.

Dried thyme

Dried thyme

Add with the aromatics, not at the end.

$ dried French Caribbean

Bay leaves

Bay leaves tej patta

You notice them only when they are missing. Always two, never one.

$ dried

Dried marjoram

Dried marjoram

Sweeter, gentler oregano. Underrated in bean dishes.

$ dried German Eastern European Italian

Kasoori methi

Kasoori methi dried fenugreek leaf

Dried fenugreek leaves. Crush between palms over finished curries.

$ dried Indian

Dried mint na'na khoshk

Turns fragrant and a shade darker when toasted dry, the traditional topping for adasi and other Persian stews.

$ dried Persian Middle Eastern

Spices

35

Buy whole, toast, grind. Ten times the flavor for the same price.

Cumin seed

Cumin seed jeera

Toast whole in a dry pan until fragrant, then grind. Non-negotiable.

$ whole, ground Indian Mexican Middle Eastern

Coriander seed

Coriander seed dhania

Citrusy and floral. The other half of nearly every masala.

$ whole, ground Indian Middle Eastern Thai

Black peppercorns

Black peppercorns kali mirch

Grind fresh or do not bother. Piperine boosts turmeric uptake.

$ whole

Fennel seed

Fennel seed saunf

Sweet anise. Balances bitter greens and heavy legumes.

$ whole Indian Italian Chinese

Green cardamom

Green cardamom elaichi

Floral, expensive, unmistakable. Crush the pod, use the seeds.

$$$ whole Indian Persian Scandinavian

Black cardamom

Black cardamom badi elaichi

Smoky and camphorous. Not a substitute for green.

$$ whole Indian Chinese

Mace

Mace javitri

The lacy shell around nutmeg. More delicate, more floral.

$$$ whole Indian French

Allspice

Allspice pimento

One berry that tastes like three spices. The Caribbean backbone.

$ whole, ground Caribbean Middle Eastern Mexican

Nigella seed

Nigella seed kalonji, black seed

Onion and oregano at once. Scattered on flatbread everywhere.

$ whole Indian Middle Eastern Turkish

Ajwain

Ajwain carom, bishop's weed

Thyme cranked to eleven. Traditionally cooked with legumes.

$ whole Indian

Sumac

Sumac

Bright, tart, purple. Use it where you would squeeze a lemon.

$$ ground Middle Eastern Turkish

Sichuan peppercorn

Sichuan peppercorn hua jiao

Not heat. Numbness. Buy them fresh or they are inert.

$$ whole Chinese

Annatto

Annatto achiote

Color more than flavor. Slightly peppery, deeply orange.

$ whole, ground Mexican Filipino Caribbean

Ginger, ground

Ginger, ground sonth

Not a substitute for fresh. A different spice entirely.

$ ground Indian American European (general)

Long pepper

Long pepper pippali

Sweeter and hotter than black. What Rome used before peppercorns.

$$$ whole Indian Indonesian

Dried limes limoo amani, black lime, loomi

Whole limes fermented and sun-dried until nearly black; pierce and simmer whole for a tart, faintly smoky sourness fresh lime juice cannot match.

$$ whole, dried Persian Middle Eastern

Vanilla extract pure vanilla

A teaspoon makes date-sweetened baking read as dessert. Buy pure extract and skip anything cut with corn syrup or added sugar.

$$$ extract check-label

Fresh Chiles

10

Heat plus fruit. Not interchangeable with each other.

Jalapeño

Jalapeño

Grassy, moderate. Seeds and ribs carry the heat, not the flesh.

$ fresh Mexican American

Habanero

Habanero

Apricot and fire. Use a quarter and mean it.

$$ fresh Caribbean Mexican

Fresno

Fresno

Red jalapeño lookalike, fruitier. Good raw.

$$ fresh American Mexican

Aji amarillo paste aji amarillo, Peruvian yellow chile paste

Peru's everyday chile: fruity, floral, and only moderately hot, the color and backbone behind nearly every savory Peruvian dish.

$$ paste Peruvian check-label

Dried Chiles

15

Where the depth lives. Toast, soak, blend.

Pasilla

Pasilla

Dried chilaca. Herbal and dark. Completes the holy trinity.

$ dried Mexican

Cascabel

Cascabel

Rattles when shaken. Nutty and mild.

$$ dried Mexican

Urfa biber

Urfa biber

Raisin, chocolate, tobacco. Sun-dried and sweated.

$$ flakes Turkish

Red pepper flakes

Red pepper flakes crushed red pepper

Generic and useful. Mostly cayenne with seeds.

$ flakes Italian American

Calabrian chile

Calabrian chile

Fruity and fierce. Usually jarred in oil, so buy dried.

$$ dried Italian check-label

Dried Thai chile

Dried Thai chile

Toast until they darken. Do not inhale over the pan.

$ dried Thai Chinese

Spice Blends

13

Make your own and you control the salt.

Garam masala

Garam masala

Finishing spice, not a base. Add in the last two minutes.

$ ground Indian make-your-own

Berbere

Berbere

Chile-forward Ethiopian blend. Fenugreek and ajwain make it.

$$ ground Ethiopian make-your-own

Za'atar

Za'atar

Thyme, sumac, sesame. Usually salted, so make it yourself.

$ ground Middle Eastern sodium make-your-own

Chinese five-spice

Chinese five-spice

Star anise, fennel, cinnamon, clove, Sichuan pepper.

$ ground Chinese Vietnamese make-your-own

Baharat

Baharat

Warm, sweet, peppery. The everyday Levantine blend.

$ ground Middle Eastern Turkish make-your-own

Chili powder (blend)

Chili powder (blend)

Chile, cumin, oregano, garlic. Usually salted. Make your own.

$ ground American Tex-Mex sodium make-your-own

Sambar powder

Sambar powder

Roasted lentils ground with spices. Unique in the spice world.

$ ground Indian make-your-own

Acids

12

What you reach for instead of salt. The most underused tool.

Rice vinegar, unseasoned

Rice vinegar, unseasoned

Seasoned means sugar and salt were added. Read it.

$ liquid Japanese Chinese Korean check-label

Balsamic vinegar

Balsamic vinegar

Sweet. Cheap ones are colored with caramel. Check the label.

$$ liquid Italian natural-sugar check-label

Chinese black vinegar

Chinese black vinegar Chinkiang

Malty, smoky, low acid. Nothing in the West resembles it.

$ liquid Chinese

Pomegranate molasses

Pomegranate molasses

Sour and sweet. Reduced juice, sometimes with added sugar.

$$ liquid Middle Eastern Persian natural-sugar check-label

Verjuice

Verjuice

Unripe grape juice. Acid without vinegar's harshness.

$$$ liquid Persian French

Preserved lemon

Preserved lemon

Salt-cured. Rinse it, use the rind, discard the flesh.

$$ jarred Moroccan North African sodium

Umami & Depth

17

Savory intensity without meat, oil, or bouillon cubes.

White miso

White miso shiro miso

Sweet and mild. Add off the heat or you kill the culture.

$$ paste Japanese sodium

Red miso

Red miso aka miso

Long-fermented, aggressive, salty. Use half as much.

$$ paste Japanese sodium

Low-sodium tamari

Low-sodium tamari

Wheat-free soy sauce. Still sodium. Dilute it.

$ liquid Japanese Chinese sodium

Coconut aminos

Coconut aminos

Sweeter, far less sodium than soy. Not the same flavor.

$$ liquid American natural-sugar

Capers

Capers

Brined flower buds. Rinse hard. Pop of salt and floral bitterness.

$$ jarred Italian Mediterranean sodium

Dijon mustard

Dijon mustard

Emulsifies dressings with zero oil. Check for added sugar.

$ jarred French sodium check-label

Vegetable bouillon, no-salt

Vegetable bouillon, no-salt

Most bouillon is salt with a vegetable rumor. Find the no-salt kind.

$ powder check-label

Smoked salt or liquid smoke

Smoked salt or liquid smoke

Smoke is a flavor, not an ingredient. A drop replaces bacon.

$ liquid American sodium check-label

Wakame

Rehydrates in minutes and turns a plain broth into a bowl with real texture.

$$ dried Japanese Korean

Hijiki hiziki

Dried seaweed that swells about eightfold into glossy black strands, mineral and faintly sweet, best eaten occasionally rather than daily given its naturally higher inorganic arsenic content.

$$ dried Japanese caution

Doenjang Korean soybean paste

Fermented from soybeans alone with no rice koji, so it runs funkier and saltier than miso. The base of jjigae.

$$ paste Korean sodium

Thickeners & Creaminess

9

Creamy textures with no dairy and no oil.

Cornstarch

Cornstarch cornflour

Cloudy when cold, clear when hot. Slurry it first.

$ powder Chinese American

Baking powder

Lifts egg-free baking that would otherwise set dense. About 480 mg sodium per teaspoon, so count it in the nutrition math.

$ powder sodium

Blended white beans

Blended white beans

The best thickener here. Free protein, free fiber, no starch.

$ cooked

Aquafaba

Aquafaba

The liquid in a chickpea can. Whips like egg white. Free.

$ liquid

Plant Milks

4

Unsweetened only. Read the label for oils and gums.

Unsweetened soy milk

Unsweetened soy milk

The only plant milk with protein comparable to dairy.

$ liquid check-label

Unsweetened almond milk

Unsweetened almond milk

Thin and low calorie. Almost no protein.

$ liquid check-label

Reading the labels

whole-food-fat
Calorie dense. Use as an accent, not a base.
natural-sugar
Sugar with fiber attached. Still concentrated.
sodium
Contains meaningful sodium. Dilute or use sparingly.
check-label
Commonly sold with added oil, salt, or sugar. Read the ingredients.
make-your-own
Store versions are usually salted. Blend it yourself.
caution
Requires specific handling. See notes.
$
Cheap. Buy freely.
$$
Moderate. Buy with intent.
$$$
Splurge. A little goes far.