Ala Thel Dala, Sri Lankan Deviled Potatoes
Ala thel dala is Sri Lankan home cooking at its most direct: par-boiled potatoes tossed hard in a dry, fragrant tempering until the edges crisp and the spices cling. Thel dala means tossed in the pan, and unlike much of Sri Lankan cooking it carries no coconut, so it needs nothing changed to fit here. The signatures are the tempering of mustard seed, curry leaf, pandan, and Ceylon cinnamon, and the use of Kashmiri chile for a deep red that overstates the actual heat. Boil the potatoes short of soft, dry them well, then let them catch color in the pan. A last squeeze of lime does the work of salt.
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 lb Potatoes, cut into 0.75 inch cubes
- 1 whole Red onions, sliced thin
- 15 Curry leaves
- 1 whole Pandan leaf, torn into pieces
- 1/2 tsp Brown mustard seed
- 1 tsp pure chile powder
- 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chile, ground
- 1/2 tsp Turmeric
- 1 inch Ceylon cinnamon, broken
- 1 tbsp Lime juice
Method
- Boil the potato cubes in water until just tender at the point of a knife but not falling apart, about 10 minutes, then drain well and let them steam-dry in the colander for a few minutes. A dry surface is what lets them take on color later instead of stewing.
- In a wide dry pan over medium heat, pop the mustard seeds until they jump, then add the curry leaves, torn pandan, and broken cinnamon and let them crackle for a few seconds. This tempering is the backbone of thel dala, which means simply tossed in the pan.
- Add the sliced red onion with a splash of water and cook until soft and beginning to brown, about 6 minutes. Let the onion take real color, since its sweetness balances the chile that is coming.
- Stir in the turmeric, pure chile powder, and ground Kashmiri chile and cook for 30 seconds. The Kashmiri chile is here for a deep red color more than for heat, the way it is used across Sri Lankan tempering.
- Add the drained potatoes and toss over medium-high heat, pressing them against the pan now and then, until the edges crisp and the spices coat every piece, about 8 minutes. Deviled potatoes should be dry and a little charred at the corners, never saucy.
- Pull the pan off the heat and squeeze the lime over the top. The acid is what lifts the whole dish and stands in for the salt, so add it last while the potatoes are hot.
Nutrition
Estimated per serving: 160 calories, 4 g protein, 4 g fiber, 30 mg sodium. Computed from USDA FoodData Central reference values for the main ingredients. This is an approximation, not a laboratory measurement. How these are computed.
Cost per serving is estimated from US national-average retail prices for cheap staple forms, using BLS dried-bean prices and USDA produce prices. Prices vary by store and season, so treat it as a guide, not a receipt. How this is computed.
