Roasted Cauliflower with Tahini and Sumac
Roasted cauliflower under a lemony tahini sauce is a staple of the eastern Mediterranean table, the kind of vegetable plate that can anchor a spread of small dishes or sit beside a grain and a bowl of beans. Two techniques carry it. The first is roasting the cauliflower hard and dry, cut side down in a hot oven and left alone, so the sugars caramelize and the florets brown rather than steam. The second is the tahini sauce, which seizes when the acid hits it and then loosens with water into a silk-smooth cream, the whole-food fat that stands in for oil. Sumac, the ground dried berry that tastes of tart red fruit, is what pulls it all into focus and does the work of salt. Cumin and garlic tie the sauce to the cauliflower. It is as good warm from the oven as it is at room temperature an hour later.
Ingredients
- 1 head Cauliflower, cut in florets
- 3 tbsp Tahini
- 1 whole Lemons, juiced
- 1 clove Garlic, grated
- 1 tsp Sumac
- 1/2 tsp Cumin seed, toasted, ground
- 1/4 cup Flat-leaf parsley, chopped
- 1/4 tsp Black peppercorns, ground
Method
- Heat the oven to 450 F (230 C). Spread the florets, cut side down, on a tray in a single layer with space between them. Cauliflower is mostly water, and a hot oven with room around each piece drives that water off so the pieces brown and turn sweet instead of steaming pale and soft. Crowding the tray is the one mistake to avoid.
- Roast 25 to 30 minutes without stirring for the first 20, until the flat sides are deep brown and the edges are crisp. That hard, dry browning is the whole flavor of the dish; it is what lets cauliflower stand up to a rich dressing with no oil to help it along.
- While it roasts, whisk the tahini with the lemon juice and grated garlic. It will seize and thicken at first, which is normal; whisk in cold water a spoonful at a time and it loosens into a smooth, pourable cream. This emulsion is the sauce, and tahini brings the richness that would otherwise come from oil.
- Stir the toasted ground cumin and the black pepper into the sauce. Toasting and grinding the cumin yourself gives a warmth that pre-ground powder has lost, and it is a classic partner to both cauliflower and tahini.
- Pile the hot cauliflower on a plate, spoon the tahini over it, and scatter the sumac and parsley across the top. Sumac is the seasoning that lands the dish: its tart, almost fruity sourness does the job salt would, and its dark red against the pale sauce is half the point. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Nutrition
Estimated per serving: 140 calories, 6 g protein, 5 g fiber, 40 mg sodium. Computed from USDA FoodData Central reference values for the main ingredients. This is an approximation, not a laboratory measurement. How these are computed.
Cost per serving is estimated from US national-average retail prices for cheap staple forms, using BLS dried-bean prices and USDA produce prices. Prices vary by store and season, so treat it as a guide, not a receipt. How this is computed.
