Grünkohl, German Braised Kale
Grünkohl is the deep-winter kale stew of Lower Saxony and Bremen, cooked long and served hot after the first frost, which is said to sweeten the leaves. The classic pot leans on smoked sausage and lard for its savor. This version gets there without either: smoked paprika and a late spoon of tamari carry the smoke and depth, and a handful of steel-cut oats, the region's own thickener, gives the greens their traditional body. The one rule is time. Kale this sturdy will not surrender in ten minutes, and a Grünkohl rushed is stringy and dull, while one braised past the point you think it needs turns glossy, tender, and faintly sweet. Marjoram is the herb that makes it taste German. Make the full pot, because it only improves reheated.
Ingredients
- 2 lb Kale, stemmed and chopped
- 1 whole Yellow onions, diced
- 3 cloves Garlic, minced
- 3 tbsp Steel-cut oats
- 1 tsp Smoked paprika
- 1 tsp Dried marjoram
- 1/4 tsp Allspice, ground
- 1/8 tsp Nutmeg, freshly grated
- 1 tsp no-salt vegetable bouillon
- 1 tbsp Low-sodium tamari
- 1 tsp Dijon mustard
- 1 tbsp Apple cider vinegar
- 1/2 tsp Black peppercorns, freshly ground
Method
- Sweat the onion in a splash of water in a wide pot until soft and translucent, about 8 minutes, adding water whenever it looks dry. This slow softening with no oil is the sweet base the whole dish leans on.
- Add the garlic, smoked paprika, marjoram, and allspice and stir for a minute in the pot's moisture. Blooming the dry spices in the wet heat wakes them up, and the smoked paprika stands in for the smoked pork this dish traditionally cooks with.
- Pile in the kale in handfuls, letting each wilt before adding more, then pour in the bouillon and 2 cups (475 ml) water. Cover and braise on low for 30 to 40 minutes. Curly kale is tough and needs the long, moist heat to turn silky and sweet, which is the entire point of Grünkohl.
- Stir in the steel-cut oats and simmer uncovered another 15 minutes, adding water if it tightens. Oats are the traditional binder here: they dissolve at the edges and give the pot body without any cream, butter, or flour.
- Off the heat, stir in the tamari, mustard, vinegar, nutmeg, and black pepper. The tamari goes in last so its savory depth stays bright for very little sodium, while the vinegar and mustard cut the richness and keep the greens from tasting flat. It is better the next day, so make the full pot.
Nutrition
Estimated per serving: 130 calories, 6 g protein, 6 g fiber, 150 mg sodium. Computed from USDA FoodData Central reference values for the main ingredients. This is an approximation, not a laboratory measurement. How these are computed.
Cost per serving is estimated from US national-average retail prices for cheap staple forms, using BLS dried-bean prices and USDA produce prices. Prices vary by store and season, so treat it as a guide, not a receipt. How this is computed.
